By Muddy Waters

July 25 to August 11, 2010 – At the invitation of The Honorable Joseph Lekuton, a member of the Kenyan Parliament, Claudia Daggett (Executive Director of the Elementary School Heads Association), Laurel Seid (outgoing Head of The Little School in Seattle), my son, Jamie, and I had the experience of a lifetime in Kenya. As we drove over 2500 miles, often on dirt roads all over Kenya, we saw amazing landscapes and animals, met many wonderful people from different tribes, observed the process of approving a new national constitution, learned about some of the challenges faced by educators, gained a sense of the traditions and culture of a people that many, even within Kenya, do not know or appreciate. Often, people speak of the value of travel and learning about different cultures, but I never fully appreciated the wisdom of that insight until this trip. I can honestly say that my world view has changed in most important ways.

Rather than try to write a travelogue, I have included a timeline for those who want some sense of what we did each day. My hope for this entry is to focus on some of the lessons learned from this experience. We had a wide range of experiences from being on safari in two game parks along with many tourists to attending a session of Parliament and watching votes being counted in the national referendum on a proposed new constitution to living in the parched north, far from electricity, the internet and cell service. Our hosts made sure we were well cared for at all times, but there were many significant adjustments for all of us.

WILDLIFE

We arrived in Nairobi and went to a hotel in the heart of the downtown that did not feel very different from hotels in this country except for needing an adaptor for our cameras, phones, etc. Traffic seemed to be as much of an issue as it is here in Boston and the air quality was not good. We travelled south to Tsavo West Game preserve on roads that were at time paved and other times dirt. In fact, we had more troubles with some of the paved sections that had developed huge potholes that often forced our host for most of the trip, Stephen Labarakwe, to go onto the dirt shoulder to avoid breaking an axle in a huge depression. The views of the landscape and the animals were amazing, and it was good to know that this wonderful resource has been protected for all to enjoy. At the end of the trip, we went to the Masai Mara Game Preserve where we saw the lions that had eluded us in Tsavo as well as the spectacular migration of the wildebeests. Approximately 4,000,000 of these huge animals make this annual trek and we saw them swarming over the land as far as the eye could see.

Also, we saw the evidence of many who would not complete the trip as the vultures were finishing the job begun by the lions we saw. It was exhilarating to see all of these animals in their native habitats.

LIFE IN NORTHERN KENYA

The most memorable part of the trip for me was found in the village of Ngurunit which we came to after 10 hours of driving, much of it on dirt roads and dried up river beds in the north of Kenya. We spent several days here staying at Joseph’s camp for four days and Stephen’s camp for two days. During our time there, we encountered a young man from the Peace Corps who told us that even Kenyans had no idea what life was like in the north of the country. They receive less than ten inches of rain a year and much of it comes in downpours during the brief rainy season so it is hard to capture. We were there during their winter season so the temperature was actually cooler than what we had left in Andover for much of the trip. We watched water being hauled out of a 12 foot deep well in pails by 3 moran (young warriors) who put it into a trough for the goats, cows and camels to drink.

Our hosts made sure we always had some bottled water and had set up a barrel they filled with water for us to use as a shower. We all agreed that given the severe lack of water, we would not use the shower during our time there, so the water could be better used. Stephen’s simple sentence early in the trip that “Water is life” was made crystal clear during our time there. On the one occasion when we ran low on water, we were all quite nervous wondering what we would do. Fortunately for us, we were able to get more water, but it made us wonder how hard it would be to never be sure that there would be enough water.

We ate a thin and tasty crepe every morning and lunch and dinner tended to be rice or ugali, which is maize flour mixed with water and formed into a ball to be dipped into the stew of broth, vegetables and some chicken or beef that made up the rest of the meal. I am certain that our hosts made more food available to us than they would usually eat themselves and we did quite well on this diet, although it did take awhile to get over the snacking habits we brought with us. We learned that they tend to eat only two meals a day compared to our three. Stephen was trying to have the schools he oversees start gardens so the children could learn from the process as well as improving their diets, but it will be a big challenge given the arid conditions for most of the year.

Before leaving, we had been warned to bring plenty of insect repellent and our own mosquito netting as well as taking anti-malarial drugs. Everywhere we stayed had mosquito netting and we were quite vigilant. However, since it was winter, we actually never saw mosquitoes, and by the end of the trip, we actually slept outside for two nights and used no repellant or netting. Stephen did tell us that he has had malaria several times as had his family, and that it is something they just accept as part of life. He said that for the very young and old or sick, it can be dangerous, but that for most it is something they just have to endure like the flu. There are no medical facilities, doctors or medicine within hundreds of kilometers. We met a two year old boy who had stepped in a fire. He sat still on his mother’s lap with his foot elevated and wrapped in some sort of purple plant. It did not look good, so we gave the mother the sterile dressings and bacitracin we brought with us to try to help fight infection, and she was most grateful.

Stephen set up a time one afternoon when the women of the village brought us many of the beautiful items they make, some of which made their way home with us.

Also, we had the good fortune to have the moran display the singing and dance that has been part of their culture for generations.

The most important lesson I took from our memorable stay in Ngurunit was that we need to be much more thankful for the many blessings we have that we take for granted. It seems ironic that the people of the Samburu tribe in this village seemed to be happier and more at ease with their lot in life than many of us in this country who never have to worry about running out of water or food or getting sick and having no access to a doctor or medicine. My fondest hope is that I can keep the perspective to which this visit opened my eyes.

National Geographic, September 2010

APPROVING A NEW CONSTITUTION

Another exciting aspect of the trip actually caused the US Department of State to issue a bulletin discouraging travel to Kenya during the exact period we were scheduled to be there. The Kenyan Government was trying to have a new constitution approved by the people. They had tried the same in 2007 and not only was the constitution voted down but the ensuing riots led to the deaths of hundreds. Our host, Joseph, was well aware of the situation and assured us that he would keep us safe. The vote was scheduled for August 4^th, right in the middle of our trip when we were in far northern Kenya in the village of Loyangalani on Lake Turkana, home to the smallest tribe in terms of numbers in the world, the Elmolo. On our travels, we saw many green YES and red NO t-shirts as people made their preferences clear. As we read the newspapers, there were pleas from both sides to be sure the process was a peaceful one. Leading issues included abortion, limiting the power of the executive branch, deciding whether representation would be based on population or geographical size, the recognition of Islamic courts, and policies about land distribution. We actually were able to go to one of the polling places after voting had ended and watch the votes being counted. The final vote was 6,092,593 for and 2,795,059 opposed and the result seemed to be accepted by all, although there were long days ahead of legislation to clarify some of the more contentious topics.

We had the opportunity to eat lunch in the lunchroom for members of Parliament, observe a session of parliament and visit Joseph in his office. As a teacher of history and government, it was thrilling to watch this important moment in African history, as many hoped that this election could be a model for other African nations.

SCHOOLS

A major purpose of the trip was to learn about the Kenyan system of education and to help in the construction of a school. We did not do as much of the latter as we spent a few hours painting blackboards and one morning moving rocks from a river bed to the grounds of a school as the basis of a new foundation. We did not get to see school in session as the Kenyan schools have three terms a year with the months of April, August, and December as vacation times. Children are required by law to attend school through the eighth grade, but unfortunately that law is neither heeded nor enforced as many young children are required to spend their days moving the family animals to better grazing areas.

We saw several schools that ranged from fairly Spartan rooms where up to 100 children sat on the floor being taught by a single teacher in Ngurunit to the Kisima Secondary School in the central highland town of Nyahururu where 160 children are taught by 9 teachers on a five acre campus filled with vegetables and flowers grown by the children.

Stephen and Joseph both received educations as the result of being taken from their village by missionaries who enrolled them in their mission schools. Stephen is in charge of seven schools in northern Kenya and works tirelessly to get them the resources they lack. He has organized the building of very simple buildings and is now trying to make connections to get the teachers and students any supplies he can. He told us that the children would be so excited to see the newly painted blackboards upon their return. Once again, he made me even more aware of how much we have and take for granted in American schools and it makes me even more resolved to be sure we make the best use of all we do have.

HOW TO BE OF HELP

Just before we left, a friend gave me The Blue Sweater: Bridging the Gap between Rich and Poor in an Interconnected World by Jacqueline Novogratz. It was the perfect book to be reading as we were on our amazing journey. Ms Novogratz tells her personal story of trying to bridge that gap and all the mistakes that she and others made. In her effort to be of service, too often did she try to impose her American perspective and solutions on very different cultures. Also, she studied many philanthropic efforts and found that throwing money at problems often compounded them. Her mission became to find people in impoverished areas with whom to collaborate. She looked for bright, committed and creative people who not only had local knowledge, but also would be the ones who stayed in the area and insured that any initiatives that were begun would be sustained. Her stories were truly inspirational and made obvious the importance of building relationships as the foundation for ongoing work. It is my hope that we will be able to work with our new friends, Stephen and Joseph, to help them continue to strive to improve life in northern Kenya.

MUDDY’S LOG:

Sunday, July 25
10:40 AM Jamie, Muddy, and Claudia arrive at Logan Airport
11:30 AM Told flight to NYC delayed for mechanical reasons
2:45 PM Mechanical problems not resolved; new plane on way
3:45 PM Weather in NYC (80 MPH winds) cause further delay; means we will miss connection and must rebook and meet Laurel in Zurich
9:30 PM Leave on Swiss Air for Zurich (3738 mile trip)

Monday, July 26
10:30 AM Arrive in Zurich; meet Laurel; check in at Radisson Blu Hotel at airport (6 hour time difference from EDT)
12:30 PM Take train to Old Town part of Zurich
1:30 PM Eat lunch at Zeughauskeller Restaurant
2:30 PM Wander through Zurich
5:00 PM Take train back to hotel
7:00 PM Take train back to Old Town and eat dinner at Mere Catherine restaurant
9:30 PM Back to hotel as sun is setting

Tuesday, July 27 (cloudy and cool)
7:00 AM Wakeup call
9:30 AM Leave for Nairobi (3784 mile trip – 7 hour diff. from EDT)
6:15 PM Land in Nairobi as sun sets and met by Stephen Labarakwe and a driver
6:45 PM Arrive Sarova Stanley Hotel in Nairobi
7:30 PM Meet Joseph Lekuton for dinner at hotel
10:00 PM Bed

Wednesday, July 28 (partly cloudy and cool)
5:30 AM Wake up
6:00 AM Leave in Toyota Land Cruiser for Sarova Salt Lick Game Lodge in Taita Hills Wildlife Sanctuary near Tsavo West Game Park in southern Kenya (360 KM)
12:30 PM Arrive at Sarova Taita Hills Game Lodge for lunch
4:00 PM Game drive with guide named Crispus; saw elephants,zebras, buffalo, eland, gazelles, antelope and more
7:30 PM Dinner
10:00 PM Bed

Thursday, July 29 (partly sunny)
5:30 AM Wakeup
6:00 AM Game drive (same animals plus giraffes and monkeys)
8:30 AM Surprise breakfast in the bush with tables with linens, chef, full breakfast and champagne
10:15 AM Return to lodge
11:30 AM Up to Taita Hills for lunch
12:30 PM Relax
4:00 PM Game drive
6:00 PM Another surprise – Sundowner, which is snacks on a hill at sunset
8:30 PM Dinner
10:00 PM Bed

Friday, July 30 (sunniest day yet and warm)
7:00 AM Wakeup
9:00 AM Leave Tsavo West area for Nairobi
4:00 PM Arrive Sarova Stanley in Nairobi
7:00 PM Dinner
10:00 PM Bed

Saturday, July 31 (partly cloudy and cool)
7:00 AM Wakeup
9:30 AM Leave for Joseph’s camp in Ngurunit in the north
12:30 PM Lunch at Trout-Tree Restaurant (amazing monkeys nearby and the freshest fish possible)
1:30 PM Stop for pictures at Equator
4:00 PM Tarmac ends at Isiolo and dirt road begins
8:30 PM Arrive at Joseph’s camp after 500 KM drive and dinner
10:00 PM Bed

Sunday, August 1 (mostly cloudy and cool)
6:45 AM Wakeup
7:00 AM Breakfast
9:00 AM Hike in area with Josephat – See many mothers, young children, goats, and camels; we hear loudspeaker speeches about upcoming vote on constitution
12:00 PM Back to camp for lunch (chicken stew and ugali) and relaxation
2:00 PM Quick visit from Joseph and quiet afternoon
7:30 PM Dinner (spaghetti and potato stew)
8:30 PM Bed

Monday, August 2 (sunny and warmer)
6:45 AM Wakeup
7:30 AM Breakfast
9:00 AM Watch 3 moran (young warriors) get water from well
10:00 AM Walk to local school; on way saw young boy who had stepped in fire and burned foot badly (we gave some bacitracin)
11:30 AM Drove to Ngurunit Primary School to see it. Jamie and Muddy stay there while Claudia and Laurel ride with Steven to Marsabit to help with errands
12:30 PM Laurel and Claudia attend Samburu wedding
1:00 PM Jamie and Muddy walk back to camp with two young Kenyan teachers who work in school a primary and secondary school in Korr
2:00 PM Lunch
4:00 PM Jamie and Muddy climb a hill that gives good view of area
7:00 PM Dinner
9:15 PM Laurel and Claudia return from Marsabit
10:00 PM Bed

Tuesday, August 3 (sunny and hot)
6:45 AM Wakeup
8:30 AM Walk to Stephen’s camp and then drive to school to paint more blackboards
11:30 AM Drive to see another school in Mpagras (13 KM away);
Stephen talks to elders there about news including the proposed constitution; see place where well they tried to dig was washed away by flood
2:30 PM Lunch
4:00 PM Women from village set up market for us to buy crafts
5:15 PM Drive up tough road to slide in mountain stream
7:30 PM Leave for Samburu Sports Camp in South Horr (70 KM away)
9:30 PM Arrive at camp, dinner and bed

Wednesday, August 4 (sunny and hottest day yet – Constitution referendum today)
7:00 AM Wakeup
8:15 AM Drive 70 KM north to Lake Turkana
10:30 AM Arrive at Palm Shade Camp in Loyangalani on Lake
Turkana; lots of lava rock looks like moonscape)
11:00 AM Meet lots of kids from Elmolo tribe (smallest tribe in world);they hold our hands as we walk down hill to market; get tour of village and learn about their main livelihood, fishing
1:30 PM Lunch
2:30 PM Rest at camp
5:00 PM Go for swim at pool fed by hot-water spring; then, go to watch local officials count votes for referendum on new Constitution
7:00 PM Dinner
9:00 PM Chat with Joseph who is optimistic about outcome of referendum
10:00 PM Bed

Thursday, August 5 (clear and hottest day of trip – 39 degrees Celsius)
7:00 AM Wakeup
8:00 AM Breakfast
9:00 AM Tour of Loyangalani with David, grade 8 student; see Joseph conduct rally of locals while another group marches on our camp to press an issue with Joseph that he resolves
11:00 AM Return to Camp to wait for Stephen and Joseph and lunch
3:30 PM Leave for Ngurunit
6:00 PM Stop at Sambura Sports Camp for dinner and shoot some baskets with kids there
9:00 PM Arrive at Stephen’s camp and sleep outside on deck
10:00 PM Bed

Friday, August 6 (sunny and warm)
7:00 AM Wakeup
8:00 AM Breakfast
9:00 AM Walk to riverbed to collect stones that will serve as foundation for 2 new classrooms for school (hot and demanding); fill Land Rover 4 times with rocks
12:30 PM Lunch and siesta
4:30 PM Moran warriors dance and sing for us for 90 minutes
6:45 PM Fireside chat with Stephen’s children and their friends and cousins
8:00 PM Dinner
9:00 PM Bed

Saturday, August 7 (sunny and warm)
6:15 AM Wakeup
8:30 AM Goodbyes to new friends in Ngurunit and leave for Nanyuki
10:30 AM Stop at World Vision office in Laisamis
11:00 AM Stumble on new camp built in hillside owned by Diipa Lenanyangara and sponsored by a group called Cultural Survival
2:30 PM Lunch at Oasis Restaurant in Isiolo
5:15 PM Arrive at Equator Chalet in Nanyuki
6:00 PM Walk streets and are besieged by children asking for handouts
7:30 PM Dinner at Sherlock’s Den at Books First
9:00 PM Back to hotel and bed

Sunday, August 8 (cool and brief mist before sun in Central Highlands)
6:30 AM Breakfast
8:30 AM Leave for Ilariak Game Lodge
10:00 AM Stop at Thompson Falls in Nyahururu
11:00 AM Stop at Kisima Secondary School run by David and Catherine; beautiful school for poor students from north of Kenya
11:30 AM Visit David and Catherine at their home
2:30 PM Arrive Naivasha and have lunch at La Belle Inn
5:15 PM Lights of car show problem with engine so we are nervous; after restarting car, it is fine
6:15 PM Arrive at Ilariak Lodge
7:00 PM Dinner
8:00 PM Watch Kenyan Idol on TV
10:00 PM Bed

Monday, August 9 (partly sunny, 15 degrees Celsius at wakeup)
5:45 AM Breakfast
6:15 AM Leave for 65 KM trip to Masai Mara
7:30 AM Arrive at game park and pick up guide (Sam)
8:00 AM Get first look at 4 million migrating wildebeests (90% are male)
9:30 AM See hippo site near Tanzanian border, also see crocodile, hyena, cheetah, giraffe, zebras, and many dead wildebeests often with vultures
11:30 AM Get 10 feet from sleeping lion and lioness
1:00 PM Lunch at Keekorok Lodge
2:00 PM More touring of park
5:15 PM Return to lodge; drove 150 KM in park during day;
Crossed Sand River into Tanzania and Serengetti Park
8:00 PM Dinner
8:30 PM Great talk with Joseph and Stephen in front of fire
10:30 PM Bed

Tuesday, August 10 (cool and partly sunny)
7:00 AM Wakeup
8:00 AM Breakfast
9:10 AM Leave for Nairobi
12:30 PM Arrive Nairobi and go to Joseph’s office
1:00 PM Lunch in Parliament dining room
2:30 PM Observe Parliament in session
3:00 PM Go on walking tour of downtown Nairobi and to top of Kenya International Convention Center (2nd tallest building in city, with great view)
6:00 PM Meet Joseph in office and drive to Carnivore restaurant
8:15 PM Leave for Airport
9:00 PM Arrive airport and Joseph takes us straight to lounge used by Parliament members
11:30 PM Flight departs for Zurich

Wednesday, August 11
6:30 AM Flight arrives Zurich
12:40 PM Flight arrives JFK in New York
6:00 PM Flight arrives in Boston